rolex model 1680 two tone | Rolex submariner 1680 price

The Rolex Submariner 1680 holds an undeniable place in horological history. It marks a significant transition: the introduction of the date complication to Rolex's iconic dive watch. While the steel version of the 1680, particularly the Red Submariner, often steals the spotlight, the two-tone (stainless steel and gold) variant, specifically the reference 1680, presents a fascinating and often overlooked chapter in the Submariner's evolution. It's a testament to Rolex's commitment to both functionality and luxury, blending the ruggedness of a tool watch with the elegance of precious metals.

Despite being a momentous reference in the life of the most important sports watch of all time, there are some discrepancies and nuances that make navigating the world of the 1680 two-tone a complex but rewarding journey. This article will delve into the intricacies of the Rolex 1680 two-tone, exploring its history, variations, identifying markers, and ultimately, its appeal to collectors and enthusiasts.

The Allure of Bi-Metal: A Shift in Submariner Aesthetic

The Submariner, since its inception, had been primarily associated with stainless steel. It was a tool, a companion for divers, engineers, and adventurers. The introduction of the date function with the 1680 was a step towards everyday practicality, but the introduction of a two-tone model represented a distinct shift in the Submariner's positioning. It wasn't solely about diving anymore; it was about a lifestyle.

The two-tone 1680, often referred to as the "Rolesor" Submariner, blended the robustness of stainless steel with the warmth and prestige of gold. This combination appealed to a broader audience, those who appreciated the Submariner's inherent qualities but desired a touch of luxury. This move cemented the Submariner's status not just as a diving instrument but as a symbol of success and refined taste.

Understanding the Rolex 1680 Two-Tone Variations:rolex model 1680 two tone

Like its steel counterpart, the two-tone 1680 went through several subtle iterations during its production run. Identifying these variations is crucial for understanding the value and authenticity of a particular piece. These variations primarily revolve around the dial, bezel, and the bracelet.

* Dial Variations:

* Mark I to Mark VII Dials: The two-tone 1680, while not boasting the iconic "Red Submariner" text, still exhibits different dial variations, often referred to as Mark I through Mark VII. These variations are identified by subtle differences in the font, spacing, and serifs of the "SUBMARINER" and "200m = 660ft" text. While the dial variations are less pronounced than those found in the steel Red Submariners, they are still crucial for collectors. Careful examination of the dial text and font is essential.

* Nipple Dial: A defining characteristic of the two-tone 1680 is the "nipple dial." This refers to the applied gold hour markers, filled with tritium lume, that protrude slightly from the dial surface, resembling nipples. These markers add a distinct depth and dimension to the dial, contributing to its luxurious feel.

* Tritium Lume: The lume used on the dial and hands of the 1680 is tritium. Over time, tritium lume ages, developing a creamy, yellowish, or even brownish patina. This patina is highly desirable to collectors, adding character and authenticity to the watch. However, it's important to distinguish between genuine tritium patina and artificially aged lume.

* Bezel Variations:

* Gold Bezel Insert: The two-tone 1680 features a gold bezel insert with black markings. These inserts can vary in the font style and depth of the engravings. Over time, the bezel insert can fade, scratch, or even crack. The condition of the bezel insert is a significant factor in the overall value of the watch.

* Bezel Material: While the insert is gold, the rotating bezel itself is typically stainless steel with a gold cap or plating. Wear and tear can expose the underlying steel, which is something to look out for.

* Bracelet Variations:

* Oyster Bracelet: The standard bracelet for the two-tone 1680 is the Oyster bracelet, typically with folded links. The center links are gold, while the outer links are stainless steel.

* Jubilee Bracelet: While less common, some two-tone 1680s were fitted with a Jubilee bracelet. This bracelet style offers a more dressy aesthetic compared to the Oyster.

* Bracelet Codes and End Links: Identifying the correct bracelet code and end links for a specific year of production is crucial for ensuring the originality of the watch. These codes are usually stamped on the clasp and end links of the bracelet.

Identifying Authenticity and Avoiding Pitfalls: