breitling ref 808 steel chronomat 217012 | Breitling 808 chronograph

The Breitling Ref 808 Steel Chronomat 217012 stands as a testament to Breitling's rich history of producing robust and technically proficient chronographs. This model, a celebrated iteration within the iconic Chronomat line, holds a special place in the hearts of vintage watch enthusiasts. The reference 808, particularly the steel version designated 217012, represents a compelling blend of functionality, durability, and classic design, making it a highly sought-after piece for collectors and those seeking a reliable and stylish vintage timepiece. This article delves into the intricacies of the Breitling Ref 808 Steel Chronomat 217012, exploring its features, historical context, market value, and the considerations one should keep in mind when acquiring one.

A Legacy of Precision: Understanding the Breitling Chronomat Line

To appreciate the Ref 808, it's crucial to understand the Chronomat's lineage. Introduced in the early 1940s, the Chronomat was conceived as a tool watch for professionals, particularly scientists and engineers. Its defining feature was the slide rule bezel, a sophisticated logarithmic scale that allowed for complex calculations, such as multiplication, division, and unit conversions, directly on the wrist. This functionality made the Chronomat an indispensable instrument for pilots, mathematicians, and anyone requiring quick and accurate calculations in the pre-digital age.

Over the decades, the Chronomat evolved, adapting to changing trends and incorporating new technologies. However, the core DNA of the Chronomat—its functional design, robust construction, and commitment to precision—remained constant. The Ref 808, produced in the 1960s and early 1970s, represents a pivotal point in the Chronomat's evolution, retaining the slide rule bezel while incorporating a more refined and elegant aesthetic.

The Breitling Ref 808 Steel Chronomat 217012: A Closer Look

The Breitling Ref 808 Steel Chronomat 217012 is characterized by several key features that contribute to its desirability:

* Case: The case, typically crafted from stainless steel, measures around 38mm in diameter, a size that sits comfortably on the wrist and aligns with the vintage aesthetic. The steel case offers excellent durability and resistance to corrosion, ensuring the watch's longevity. The case design is typically straightforward, with clean lines and polished surfaces, emphasizing the watch's functionality.

* Dial: The dial is arguably the most captivating aspect of the Ref 808. Typically, it features a clean and legible layout with contrasting subdials for the chronograph functions. The dial color can vary, with common variations including silver, black, and panda (white dial with black subdials). The dial markings are generally printed, contributing to the watch's vintage charm. The cleanliness and condition of the dial are paramount when evaluating a Ref 808, as any significant damage or restoration can negatively impact its value. The listing specifically highlights "Clean Dial," which is a significant selling point, suggesting the absence of major blemishes or aging issues that would detract from the watch's appearance.

* Bezel: The slide rule bezel is the signature feature of the Chronomat. It consists of two rotating scales, one on the outer edge of the bezel and one on the inner edge, allowing for a wide range of calculations. The bezel is typically bi-directional, allowing for easy manipulation. The condition of the bezel is crucial, as excessive wear or damage can impair its functionality and detract from the watch's overall aesthetic.

* Movement: The Ref 808 is typically powered by a manual-winding chronograph movement, often the Valjoux 7733 or 7734. These movements are known for their reliability, robustness, and ease of servicing, making them a popular choice for vintage chronographs. The movement's functionality is critical, and a prospective buyer should ensure that the chronograph functions operate smoothly and accurately.

* Chronograph Functionality: The Ref 808 features a chronograph complication, allowing the wearer to measure elapsed time. The chronograph functions are typically controlled by two pushers located on the side of the case. The central seconds hand records the elapsed seconds, while the subdials track minutes and hours.

* Crystal: The crystal is typically made of acrylic, a material that is durable and scratch-resistant. However, acrylic crystals are prone to scratching, and many vintage Ref 808s will exhibit some degree of wear. Polishing the crystal can often restore its clarity.

The Allure of a "Clean Dial": What to Look For

The phrase "Clean Dial," as mentioned in the provided listing, is a significant indicator of the watch's condition and value. A clean dial implies the absence of:

* Significant Scratches or Damage: No major scratches or blemishes on the dial surface.breitling ref 808 steel chronomat 217012

* Discoloration or Fading: Uniform color across the dial, without noticeable fading or yellowing due to age or exposure to sunlight.

* Damage to the Print: All markings, including the Breitling logo, numerals, and scales, are clear and legible.

* Corrosion or Oxidation: No signs of rust or oxidation on the dial or hands.