breitling ref 1808 | Breitling Chronomat Automatic Ref. 1808 (Breitling

The Breitling Ref. 1808, a product of the late 1960s and early 1970s, occupies a significant place in the history of chronograph watches. More than just a stylish timepiece, it represents a bold step in automatic chronograph technology, driven by the innovative "Chrono-matic" movement. This article delves into the details of the Breitling Ref. 1808, exploring its design, movement, historical context, and lasting appeal to collectors.

A Chronomat Evolution: From Slide Rule to Automatic

The Breitling Chronomat lineage stretches back to the 1940s, initially conceived as a tool watch for scientists and engineers, featuring a slide rule bezel for complex calculations. These early Chronomats were manually wound, embodying the traditional watchmaking practices of the era. The Ref. 1808, however, marked a pivotal transition, embracing the burgeoning technology of automatic movements.

The introduction of automatic winding revolutionized the watch industry, offering convenience and consistent power delivery compared to manual winding. However, developing an automatic *chronograph* movement proved to be a significant engineering challenge. Several companies, including Breitling, Heuer, Hamilton, and Dubois-Depraz, embarked on a race to be the first to market with an automatic chronograph.

The Ref. 1808 was Breitling's entry into this race, powered by the "Chrono-matic" movement, a collaborative effort involving Breitling, Heuer-Leonidas, Hamilton-Buren, and Dubois-Depraz. While other automatic chronograph movements, such as the Zenith El Primero and the Seiko 6139, also emerged around the same time, the Chrono-matic held its own, offering a unique and technically interesting solution.

The Heart of the Matter: The Chrono-matic Movement and the Microrotor

The defining feature of the Breitling Ref. 1808 is undoubtedly its "Chrono-matic" movement. This movement, initially known as the Calibre ., was a modular design, meaning it was built from separate components that could be easily assembled and serviced. The base movement was typically a Buren 1281, a robust and reliable platform. The chronograph module, designed by Dubois-Depraz, was then added on top.

One of the most distinctive aspects of the Chrono-matic movement is its *microrotor*. Unlike traditional automatic movements that use a full-sized rotor swinging across the entire movement, the Chrono-matic employs a much smaller, off-center rotor embedded within the movement itself. This microrotor, often made of tungsten for its high density, oscillates back and forth, winding the mainspring.

The use of a microrotor offered several advantages:breitling ref 1808

* Reduced Thickness: The microrotor allowed for a thinner overall movement profile compared to full-rotor automatic chronographs. This was crucial in a time when slimness was considered a desirable attribute in watches.

* Unobstructed View: The smaller rotor left more of the movement visible, allowing watchmakers to showcase the intricate finishing and components.

* Distinctive Winding Feel: The microrotor generated a unique winding feel, often described as a gentle "buzz" on the wrist, differentiating it from the smoother, more sweeping motion of a full-rotor movement.

Design and Aesthetics: A Blend of Function and Style

The Breitling Ref. 1808 is characterized by its distinctive case design and dial layout. The case is typically stainless steel, although some examples were also produced in gold-plated versions. The most recognizable feature is the placement of the crown on the left side of the case, a direct consequence of the Chrono-matic movement's modular construction. The chronograph pushers are located on the right side of the case, as is typical for chronograph watches.

The dial of the Ref. 1808 is equally distinctive. It typically features a combination of contrasting subdials and a tachymeter scale around the outer edge. The subdials are used to record elapsed time, with a running seconds subdial, a 30-minute counter, and a 12-hour counter. The tachymeter scale allows the wearer to measure speed over a known distance.

The hands and hour markers are usually luminous, enhancing legibility in low-light conditions. The overall design of the Ref. 1808 strikes a balance between functionality and style, reflecting the tool watch heritage of the Chronomat while incorporating contemporary design elements of the 1970s.

Variations and Sub-References

While the Ref. 1808 is the primary reference for the automatic Chronomat with the Chrono-matic movement, several variations and sub-references exist. These variations can differ in terms of dial color, hand style, case material, and bezel design. Some notable variations include:

* Reverse Panda Dial: Models with a black dial and white subdials, or vice versa, are often referred to as "reverse panda" dials and are highly sought after by collectors.

* Gold-Plated Cases: While most Ref. 1808s were made with stainless steel cases, some examples were produced with gold-plated cases, offering a more luxurious aesthetic.

* Different Bezel Inserts: The tachymeter bezel inserts could vary in color and design, offering subtle variations in appearance.